The Rise of Cosmeticorexia: A Troubling Trend in Skincare
Unveiling the Dark Side of Social Media Influence
In today's digital age, social media platforms have become powerful catalysts for various trends, some more concerning than others. One such trend, dubbed 'Cosmeticorexia', is leaving an indelible mark on young girls' lives, shaping their self-image and skincare routines in ways that demand our attention.
Skincare Obsession: A New Normal?
The story of Ellie-May, a 13-year-old influencer, epitomizes the phenomenon. Her journey from an enthusiastic 10-year-old showcasing her multi-step skincare routine on TikTok to a seasoned content creator with a substantial following is both fascinating and alarming. What began as a lockdown pastime has evolved into a lucrative business, with Ellie-May's family earning over £50,000 annually from their social media presence.
This narrative is not unique. A quick search on social media platforms reveals a plethora of young girls, some as young as three or four, passionately discussing skincare products and makeup. The 'get ready with me' and 'after school' skincare videos have become a genre in themselves, where these young influencers talk about their day while applying cosmetics.
The Evolution of Skincare Marketing
Skincare products targeted at girls are not a new concept. However, the current landscape is markedly different. Girls are now exposed to a vast array of sophisticated products, many containing anti-aging ingredients, promising flawless skin. Brands like Bubble, Drunk Elephant, and P. Louise have become household names, with some even featuring K-Pop Demon Hunters-themed skincare packs.
Interestingly, while some brands openly target children, others, like Drunk Elephant, claim to educate their customers on responsible product usage, distancing themselves from the youth market. This dichotomy highlights the complex relationship between skincare companies and their young consumers.
The Statistics Speak Volumes
A study by Pai, a skincare brand, offers a startling insight. Nearly half of the 1,500 nine-to-12-year-olds surveyed use multiple skincare products weekly, with half of those aiming to fix perceived problem skin. This trend has spawned a multi-billion-pound industry, showing no signs of slowing down.
The Pressure to Look Perfect
The implications of this trend are profound. Brooke Erin Duffy, a social media researcher at Cornell University, points out that while women in their 30s and 40s have long been targeted by skincare companies, the shift towards younger girls is concerning. These girls are now under pressure to achieve flawless skin, a standard set by social media influencers and reinforced by skincare brands.
Cosmeticorexia: A New Term, A Growing Concern
Dermatologists and academics have coined the term 'cosmeticorexia' to describe an unhealthy obsession with achieving flawless skin from a young age, leading to excessive cosmetic product use. Prof Giovanni Damiani, an Italian dermatologist, has been at the forefront of this research, studying the impact of social media on young clients' skincare habits.
His findings reveal that those displaying signs of cosmeticorexia are often mobile-phone obsessed, spending hours watching skincare videos on social media. They use multiple skincare products daily and refuse to socialize without makeup, even with family.
Regulatory Response and Industry Reactions
The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) has taken notice, launching investigations into beauty companies like LVMH, questioning their marketing strategies aimed at children and adolescents. LVMH, while cooperating with authorities, maintains that they do not target young people and only work with adult influencers.
The Advertising Standards Agency (ASA) in the UK is also monitoring the situation, but no formal action has been taken yet. This lack of regulatory intervention is concerning, given the potential risks associated with young girls' excessive skincare routines.
The High Cost of Skincare
The financial aspect is another angle to consider. Skincare routines promoted by young influencers can be expensive, with an average cost of £125, according to a study. This raises questions about the affordability of these routines and the potential financial burden on families.
The Irony of Youthful Skin
Consultant dermatologist Dr. Jean Ayer highlights the irony of this trend. Children naturally have perfect skin, with a well-preserved skin barrier. Yet, they are being influenced to use products designed for anti-aging, which can be harmful to their delicate skin.
Dermatological Concerns
Dr. Ayer's observations are supported by the increasing number of young patients with skin issues. From severe reactions to beauty products to acne and contact dermatitis, the consequences of excessive skincare product use are becoming more apparent.
The Role of Active Ingredients
Many skincare products contain active ingredients like retinol, which can have biological effects on skin cells. While beneficial for adults, these ingredients can overstimulate children's skin, leading to 'retinol burn' and long-term sensitivity.
The Psychological Impact
The psychological implications are equally worrying. Alberto Stefana, an Italian psychologist, suggests that children obsessed with skincare may struggle to accept their true image as they grow older. Their self-esteem becomes tied to social media validation, leading to potential body dysmorphic disorder (BDD) symptoms.
Jessica Ringrose, a professor of sociology of gender and education, echoes this concern. She believes that children are being sold an idealized 'perfect look' and 'perfect life', leading to feelings of failure if they cannot achieve these unrealistic standards.
Social Media Platforms' Responsibility
TikTok, while claiming to protect teenagers with special safeguards and no targeted advertising, also highlights its role in educating users about skin health. However, the question remains: are these platforms doing enough to address the potential harm caused by skincare-related content?
A Complex Digital Reality
The rise of cosmeticorexia is a multifaceted issue. While it may seem like an inevitable part of growing up in a digital world, the potential long-term psychological and dermatological impacts cannot be ignored. The responsibility lies not only with social media companies but also with skincare brands and parents.
A Call for Action
As this trend continues to gain momentum, it's crucial to address the underlying issues. From regulating marketing strategies aimed at children to educating parents and young people about healthy skincare habits, there's a need for collective action.
The story of Ellie-May and countless other young girls highlights the power of social media influence and the potential pitfalls. It's time to have an open and honest conversation about the beauty industry's impact on young minds and take steps to ensure a healthier relationship with skincare.
